Cycling plus Snow equals Pure adrenaline

One of the most appealing things about snowbiking, apart from tyres with metal spikes, is the infinitely variable riding conditions encountered out on the trail. Even if you only have access to one suitable snowbiking route, it will offer different experiences every time you ride it. Compared to summer riding, you may have to downgrade your expectations a little, as progress is likely to be slower and harder work. You should also be prepared for more frequent walks and perhaps the possibility that you may need to turn back and try another day. As ever, the more you ride, the more you will become attuned to what will work and what wont.
If there’s ever a time to make sure that your bike is working properly it is now. Check your lights and batteries. Check and adjust your brakes and gears. Make sure everything is cleaned and lubricated, but be aware that some thick oils and chain waxes can thicken in low temperatures and may give you problems. Assuming that your snowbike is suitably equipped with studded tyres then, ironically, sheet-ice probably represents your best chances of forward motion, especially if any uphill is involved. The studs provide an impressive amount of grip which is unlikely to be bettered even by walking. Hard-packed snow would come a good second, and as such, well used routes are a good starting point for the would-be snowbiker.
The more deeper, softer and powdery the snow gets, the more difficult it is to get a snowbike going. On downhill routes, the gradient can offset some of these initial problems, but in deep snow the tyres are unable to bite into anything solid, and the bike washes about like riding in sand. In these circumstances, it is difficult to do more than follow the fall-line of the hillside, and anything off-camber is likely to end horizontally. Having said all that, the more deep, soft and powdery the snow gets, the less painful it is to fall into.
During sunny weather, the surface of the snow-pack undergoes a cycle of thawing and refreezing, producing a hard crust over softer snow. This can be difficult and unpredictable to ride; the crust thickness will vary according to the amount of sun it has been exposed to, so under trees, there may be a lesser crust than in open meadows. Conversely, the sun may be initiating another thaw cycle so the crust in the meadow may be softer than that under the trees. Another anomaly is that, if hit at speed, each patch of crust has to support your weight for less time, so is more likely to hold. However, if you hit the crust at speed and it gives way under the front wheel, you are likely to go over the bars in a rather spectacular manner. Speed, combined with weight as far back as possible is probably the best compromise in these circumstances. As an extension of this point, and in terms of under-wheel conditions rather than comfort, the coldest times of the day (first thing in the morning or late at night) are likely to offer the best snowbiking conditions.
Now we move on to riding technique and enjoying ourselves!
The important thing is to sit down and relax. Stay calm and just ride smoothly and normally. If you tense up you risk slipping. On flat roads stay in a slightly higher gear than normal. This will prevent you spinning your wheels. On up-hills pedal smoothly whilst staying in the saddle, this may mean selecting a lower gear than normal. Do not combine braking and turning. Brake in a straight line, then release the brake and turn. Use your back brake more than normal and be careful with the front brake. Stay in the saddle with your feet on the pedals. Some people say to put both feet down on ice so you have 4 contact points, this is a bad idea as you have less weight on each contact point and less ability to keep the bike upright. In fact it is almost impossible to balance a bike with just a little weight on the saddle and your feet spread wide. You're likely to have the bike slide out and then do the splits over it! Painful! The big secret of riding safely, as always, is to plan ahead. Look as far as you can, plan a course, then ride it whilst still remaining alert. There is no point in travelling fast up to a sheet of ice and then hitting it. If there is a problem up ahead do all your braking and adjustments before you get to it. The best way to learn is to get out, stay safe and ride.

Article Source: http://www.aword2thewise.com

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